Historian James McWilliams on the Downside to "Free Range" Pork

James E. McWilliams is a first-rate historian. He wrote what is, in my opinion, the single best book ever about the history of American food. (The work of Warren Belasco, especially his history of American food in the 1970s.)

Apparently he's working on a new book about eating "local" and that topic led him to write this op-ed piece in today's New York Times. It's fascinating to me because I'm writing a history of meat in America. But it's a perfect example of why long-term and critical thinking is necessary during times of social and cultural change.

Translation: eating "local" isn't quite the simple, groovy solution to food issues that many think it is. Absolutely worth a read.